Progressive Wing Clipping
Posted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 2:36 am
I am a staunch advocate of keeping a bird flighted. But I wasn't always. I will continue to push for flighted over clipped, but I do understand that there are always people who won't feel the way I do. But I also believe there is a right way, and a wrong way to go about clipping a bird. My past mistakes along this avenue have been brought to my attention (thank you Johan). Below is an article written by one of our own hawaiian native bird experts. His works in parrot enrichment, behavior analysis, and natural birdsmanship have been beneficial to many. Here he talks about the benefits of progressive wing clipping. I hope some of you find it useful should you make that decision to clip.
Birdkeeping Naturally by Eb Cravens
“The Progressive Wingclip Method”:
Eight years ago through experiments in the flight room of Feathered Friends of Santa Fe, NM., we developed what we call the Progressive Wingclip Method (PWM) for use with cagebirds.
This procedure is based upon the fact that when the one or two strongest primary flight feathers on each wing of a psittacine are cut back, the bird immediately begins flapping faster to make up the difference in wing surface area. Thus his level of exercise goes UP with the clip, NOT DOWN. Seven to ten days later, another feather on each wing is cut and the process begins all over again.
Feathers are always clipped evenly on both wings starting with the longest thick- ribbed power primaries-those that drive the bird forward, and working back towards the secondaries, the softer, wider feathers at the back of a wing which act as flaps to provide braking and control. These are never clipped except in the case of a cockatiel which can still fly minus all primaries.
The PWM solves a host of problems brought on by drastic or improper wing trim techniques. Take a parrot just entering the fledging stage, for example. In many cases, a baby bird still in the midst of its handfeeding is clipped by owner or breeder the instant the young chick takes off on its first wobbly crash flight out of the holding tub.
Stop a moment and think what this means....
In the name of safety, a fledgling psittacine is denied its full wingspan during the earliest developmental stage of its natural bird behavior. In truth, this is a totally “unsafe” practice since it denies the parrot the chance to learn the more important lesson of LANDING!
Ever wonder why your pet walks everywhere? Wonder why he leans forward with “begging wings” to be picked up from only eight inches away? Wonder why you cannot get him down from that curtain rod or that tree he has flown into?
He's terrified, that's why! Look to his fledgling training for the answer. Early wing clip--no training.
Parrot fledglings left with their full wingspan will quickly learn control. Especially important are the weeks prior to weaning when baby fat is lost and an immense wingspan to body weight ratio results. These re the days our chicks learn to hover in mid air desperately seeking a safe spot to put down. They learn the quickness of eye and decision-making necessary for the speed of being airborne. This is when babies perfect the art of “flap and hop”, the courage to jump into the air and experience to throw out their wings to a feet-first landing. That is the skill which rids a handfed pet of “begging wing” posture from eight inches away!
Don't run for the scissors after baby's first flight' run to the bedroom for 20 minutes training on a large, soft landing strip. Then follow it up with his first introduction to a dirty glass window. Press his face against it, tap his beak against it. Repeat: “Glass, Glass.”
Ever see one of those walking parrots plummet off his perch and try to land the way it climbs? Many a bruised cere, broken beak, or bloody breastbone occur each year in the birdworld when pets who were never allowed to fledge take off suddenly and crash.
Among my clipped birds the longer I left their wings at fledgling, the safer they now are. Today we try not to begin initial PWM wing phaseback until the parrot has demonstrated all necessary flight skills: Braking, flying up and down, turning right or left, taking off and landing from springy twig or rope perches and from an upside down position. It's easy to tell when a fledgling has adequate skill and confidence-- like any teenage driver, they begin to increase their SPEED!
The benefits of PWM are enormous. Properly fledged parrots develop a larger, stronger upper chest musculature, tight slender hips and legs, and tremendous foot-claw strength. They lead a more active lifestyle, often hopping from perch to perch or jump-flapping to their owner's shoulder.
Furthermore, we now know for a fact that pets who occasionally escape and fly off are not always wishing to go so far. They are merely scared to be airborne and find a treetop only when they crash into it and grab on for dear life! Train your fledgling pet to fly to your arm on command. It is a practice that will thrill you, and a lifetime skill which may save the bird's life!
So important do we believe flight skill is to the natural development and instinctual savvy of a parrot, that we will not again purchase a psittacine pet which has not been properly fledged. Conscientious breeders now utilize fledging rooms and large walk-in flights for proper chick training. Even Macaw babies are easily taught to land in control, then are slowly clipped using PWM.
When the top two primaries on each wing are cut, a bird loses some 25% of its flight, but will gain most back in a few days with increased flapping. One more feather is clipped. In some species four of five feathers is enough to limit distance and keep the bird from gaining altitude. For lighter species such as lories, ringnecks, small conures, etc. Five or six feathers are cut. With PWM it is easy to se when a feather is growing back in--then snip it.
In the case of the popular pet cockatiel, flight training is of utmost importance. These hookbills are so very light and swift that crashing into walls and windows is common. A premature wingtrim that grounds them leaves them helpless and in danger of injury.
With such sensitive species as African grays, greatbills and hawkheads, improperly fledged birds may develop nervous, trembling habits which lead to falls or even feather self-mutilation. Such species should NEVER be abruptly grounded with a drastic wingclip. Our choice is to leave more feathers on these species to let them develop a full range of climbing, hopping and acrobatic skill before clipping.
Incidentally, in fourteen years of parrotkeeping, we have never had to trip a single toenail in flock. Flight to and from rough barky surfaces wears down nails naturally. So good luck, and the next time you acquire a baby parrot, see that it is a PWM fledged bird. The results are impressive.
Also....copy this and pass it on to pet stores, friends, anyone dealing with babies. For the sake of our bards, it is important.
Aloha nui loa, ebc.
Birdkeeping Naturally by Eb Cravens
“The Progressive Wingclip Method”:
Eight years ago through experiments in the flight room of Feathered Friends of Santa Fe, NM., we developed what we call the Progressive Wingclip Method (PWM) for use with cagebirds.
This procedure is based upon the fact that when the one or two strongest primary flight feathers on each wing of a psittacine are cut back, the bird immediately begins flapping faster to make up the difference in wing surface area. Thus his level of exercise goes UP with the clip, NOT DOWN. Seven to ten days later, another feather on each wing is cut and the process begins all over again.
Feathers are always clipped evenly on both wings starting with the longest thick- ribbed power primaries-those that drive the bird forward, and working back towards the secondaries, the softer, wider feathers at the back of a wing which act as flaps to provide braking and control. These are never clipped except in the case of a cockatiel which can still fly minus all primaries.
The PWM solves a host of problems brought on by drastic or improper wing trim techniques. Take a parrot just entering the fledging stage, for example. In many cases, a baby bird still in the midst of its handfeeding is clipped by owner or breeder the instant the young chick takes off on its first wobbly crash flight out of the holding tub.
Stop a moment and think what this means....
In the name of safety, a fledgling psittacine is denied its full wingspan during the earliest developmental stage of its natural bird behavior. In truth, this is a totally “unsafe” practice since it denies the parrot the chance to learn the more important lesson of LANDING!
Ever wonder why your pet walks everywhere? Wonder why he leans forward with “begging wings” to be picked up from only eight inches away? Wonder why you cannot get him down from that curtain rod or that tree he has flown into?
He's terrified, that's why! Look to his fledgling training for the answer. Early wing clip--no training.
Parrot fledglings left with their full wingspan will quickly learn control. Especially important are the weeks prior to weaning when baby fat is lost and an immense wingspan to body weight ratio results. These re the days our chicks learn to hover in mid air desperately seeking a safe spot to put down. They learn the quickness of eye and decision-making necessary for the speed of being airborne. This is when babies perfect the art of “flap and hop”, the courage to jump into the air and experience to throw out their wings to a feet-first landing. That is the skill which rids a handfed pet of “begging wing” posture from eight inches away!
Don't run for the scissors after baby's first flight' run to the bedroom for 20 minutes training on a large, soft landing strip. Then follow it up with his first introduction to a dirty glass window. Press his face against it, tap his beak against it. Repeat: “Glass, Glass.”
Ever see one of those walking parrots plummet off his perch and try to land the way it climbs? Many a bruised cere, broken beak, or bloody breastbone occur each year in the birdworld when pets who were never allowed to fledge take off suddenly and crash.
Among my clipped birds the longer I left their wings at fledgling, the safer they now are. Today we try not to begin initial PWM wing phaseback until the parrot has demonstrated all necessary flight skills: Braking, flying up and down, turning right or left, taking off and landing from springy twig or rope perches and from an upside down position. It's easy to tell when a fledgling has adequate skill and confidence-- like any teenage driver, they begin to increase their SPEED!
The benefits of PWM are enormous. Properly fledged parrots develop a larger, stronger upper chest musculature, tight slender hips and legs, and tremendous foot-claw strength. They lead a more active lifestyle, often hopping from perch to perch or jump-flapping to their owner's shoulder.
Furthermore, we now know for a fact that pets who occasionally escape and fly off are not always wishing to go so far. They are merely scared to be airborne and find a treetop only when they crash into it and grab on for dear life! Train your fledgling pet to fly to your arm on command. It is a practice that will thrill you, and a lifetime skill which may save the bird's life!
So important do we believe flight skill is to the natural development and instinctual savvy of a parrot, that we will not again purchase a psittacine pet which has not been properly fledged. Conscientious breeders now utilize fledging rooms and large walk-in flights for proper chick training. Even Macaw babies are easily taught to land in control, then are slowly clipped using PWM.
When the top two primaries on each wing are cut, a bird loses some 25% of its flight, but will gain most back in a few days with increased flapping. One more feather is clipped. In some species four of five feathers is enough to limit distance and keep the bird from gaining altitude. For lighter species such as lories, ringnecks, small conures, etc. Five or six feathers are cut. With PWM it is easy to se when a feather is growing back in--then snip it.
In the case of the popular pet cockatiel, flight training is of utmost importance. These hookbills are so very light and swift that crashing into walls and windows is common. A premature wingtrim that grounds them leaves them helpless and in danger of injury.
With such sensitive species as African grays, greatbills and hawkheads, improperly fledged birds may develop nervous, trembling habits which lead to falls or even feather self-mutilation. Such species should NEVER be abruptly grounded with a drastic wingclip. Our choice is to leave more feathers on these species to let them develop a full range of climbing, hopping and acrobatic skill before clipping.
Incidentally, in fourteen years of parrotkeeping, we have never had to trip a single toenail in flock. Flight to and from rough barky surfaces wears down nails naturally. So good luck, and the next time you acquire a baby parrot, see that it is a PWM fledged bird. The results are impressive.
Also....copy this and pass it on to pet stores, friends, anyone dealing with babies. For the sake of our bards, it is important.
Aloha nui loa, ebc.