Hi All!!
I am new and from Sydney Australia. I have a female IRN named Indy and am finding her very difficult. I need HELP! She is around 9mths old and seems to be going through a never ending bluffing period. I am at my wits end. I think she hates me!! I did post a Help notice on another section of this forum, hoping someone would reply. I have had her since a baby but I must be doing something wrong. She bites, unepectantly and draws blood...hard to ignore!! She does step up and sit on my shoulder but I must be wary at all times. I am quite confident with her but I cant get the biting, pining and feather fluffing...along with a growl...to STOP!! She imitates quite a few whistles and other calls...I think she may be learning to say "Pretty Bird" but it is still a little muffled. Can anyone give me suggestions. I would really appreciate it! ;)
Hi
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pinkdevil
- Posts: 2601
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 11:35 pm
- Location: Central West NSW Australia
- Contact:
Re: Hi
Hi almost neighbour. 
Firstly, I would NOT allow her to be sitting on the shoulder. Especially at this point and time of biting. By Indy being on your shoulder, in her head she is a higher rank than you, making her the boss and you the slave.
If you look at pecking order in animals, the boss is always at the top, eats first, best place to sleep, etc etc.
Indy could be picking up on your tense body language when she is sitting on your shoulder or when you approach as you are expecting what is coming and she is reacting accordingly.
I had a bird that was similar to Indy, I even gave her the name of 'Feral' as she was continually biting and drawing blood for no 'apparent' reason. I brought all my bubs up the same way and she was the worst of the bunch for doing this.
There are a few methods you could try. But you need to stick at one method for a while to see if it will work.
Watch the body language, eyes pinning, certain calls/noises that indicate an attack may be on the way. Birds have mood swings just like us. We don't want constant attention or touching all day and we let others know by body language or words. We need to understand what the bird is saying to us to avoid having our body parts dissected! 
Clicker Training:
Have you tried it? Very easy to do with good results, once the bird has understood 'click' means treat coming.
Distraction:
BEFORE the bird bites and you can see by the body reaction that she might, use a toy or food to distract the bird, then give the toy or food as a reward when the bird has stopped the behaviour and relaxed. Make sure the bird has received the treat when relaxed, not straight after the bite or you are rewarding for the bite.
Time Out:
This was told to me by another member on here and works well, but does take a bit of time.
First, choose an area that is boring and the bird cannot harm itself. A small cage with no food, toys etc and nothing to look at, a stand in a boring empty dull area of the house etc.
When the bird bites or behaves in a manner you don't want, IMMEDIATELY place the bird in the boring area or cage and walk away for a minute, for example. Go back without holding a grudge and collect the bird. Each time the bird does the unacceptable behaviour, return to the naughty corner and extend the time out each time. Eventually the bird will realize that everytime it does the wrong thing, she is placed in a boring area with nothing to do.
There are other methods you could try, heaps of members have gone through similar things and have posted what has worked and not worked for them.
Have a look around the forum, you could find your answer to help with Indy.
Firstly, I would NOT allow her to be sitting on the shoulder. Especially at this point and time of biting. By Indy being on your shoulder, in her head she is a higher rank than you, making her the boss and you the slave.
If you look at pecking order in animals, the boss is always at the top, eats first, best place to sleep, etc etc.
Indy could be picking up on your tense body language when she is sitting on your shoulder or when you approach as you are expecting what is coming and she is reacting accordingly.
I had a bird that was similar to Indy, I even gave her the name of 'Feral' as she was continually biting and drawing blood for no 'apparent' reason. I brought all my bubs up the same way and she was the worst of the bunch for doing this.
There are a few methods you could try. But you need to stick at one method for a while to see if it will work.
Watch the body language, eyes pinning, certain calls/noises that indicate an attack may be on the way. Birds have mood swings just like us. We don't want constant attention or touching all day and we let others know by body language or words. We need to understand what the bird is saying to us to avoid having our body parts dissected!
Clicker Training:
Have you tried it? Very easy to do with good results, once the bird has understood 'click' means treat coming.
Distraction:
BEFORE the bird bites and you can see by the body reaction that she might, use a toy or food to distract the bird, then give the toy or food as a reward when the bird has stopped the behaviour and relaxed. Make sure the bird has received the treat when relaxed, not straight after the bite or you are rewarding for the bite.
Time Out:
This was told to me by another member on here and works well, but does take a bit of time.
First, choose an area that is boring and the bird cannot harm itself. A small cage with no food, toys etc and nothing to look at, a stand in a boring empty dull area of the house etc.
When the bird bites or behaves in a manner you don't want, IMMEDIATELY place the bird in the boring area or cage and walk away for a minute, for example. Go back without holding a grudge
and collect the bird. Each time the bird does the unacceptable behaviour, return to the naughty corner and extend the time out each time. Eventually the bird will realize that everytime it does the wrong thing, she is placed in a boring area with nothing to do.There are other methods you could try, heaps of members have gone through similar things and have posted what has worked and not worked for them.
Have a look around the forum, you could find your answer to help with Indy.
Re: Hi
Thank you so much for your reply!! I really appreciate it and all your tips sound great. I will try them one at a time and see what happens. where can I get a clicker from??
I haven't really noticed a time when she wants me to interact with her. I let her come out of the cage on her own, she is possesive of her cage, which is fine but as soon as I go any where near her I get the pining, feather ruffling and growl!!
I will keep trying and thanks ever so much for you help!!
I haven't really noticed a time when she wants me to interact with her. I let her come out of the cage on her own, she is possesive of her cage, which is fine but as soon as I go any where near her I get the pining, feather ruffling and growl!!
I will keep trying and thanks ever so much for you help!!
-
pinkdevil
- Posts: 2601
- Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2007 11:35 pm
- Location: Central West NSW Australia
- Contact:
Re: Hi
You should be able to find clickers at Kmart or Big W in the pet section, or pet shops. If not on line will defo have them.
You can really use anything with a good 'click' sound to it. I have heard of some people using a pen with the clicky thing that they have on them. Really, anything with a sharp, instant, distinct sound could be used. As long as it doesn't sound like everyday noises. The aim is to get the bird associating the sound with treat.
I spend the very first training session of around 10-15min just click then treat, so the bird is training to the sound and reward. I do not go straight into training with clicker as the bird has no idea what the sound is meant to represent. Also I noticed the bird get bored and full after around 20 min of training so I keep sessions down to around 15-20 min once or twice a day.
If you are going to use peanuts and almonds, I would cut/crush into small pieces so the bird doesn't fill up in the first 2 mins lol. You might find one full nut crushed into smaller sizes will last for the full training session. From memory, the size of crushed nuts that is sold in packets for ice cream sundaes and cakes, might be good size pieces if she will take food that small from you.
You can really use anything with a good 'click' sound to it. I have heard of some people using a pen with the clicky thing that they have on them. Really, anything with a sharp, instant, distinct sound could be used. As long as it doesn't sound like everyday noises. The aim is to get the bird associating the sound with treat.
I spend the very first training session of around 10-15min just click then treat, so the bird is training to the sound and reward. I do not go straight into training with clicker as the bird has no idea what the sound is meant to represent.
Also I noticed the bird get bored and full after around 20 min of training so I keep sessions down to around 15-20 min once or twice a day.If you are going to use peanuts and almonds, I would cut/crush into small pieces so the bird doesn't fill up in the first 2 mins lol. You might find one full nut crushed into smaller sizes will last for the full training session. From memory, the size of crushed nuts that is sold in packets for ice cream sundaes and cakes, might be good size pieces if she will take food that small from you.
Re: Hi
the territoriral of her cage thing is actually quite common in the femalr irns i had a girl that will attack me if i put my hand in her cage with out food in it
what i did to counteract that was i would offer my forearm to her just outside the cage door & ssay step up holding a pice of popcorn just outside her reach so she had to get on my arm to get it ....... irns are nuts for popcorn so far havent found one that doesnt like it
with the time out method anther way i do that one is i just stand where i was & turn my back when they act up (this one only works when they arnt standing on you) afetr the negative behaviour stops i turn around & give a treat if the birds not up to taking the food from my hand i put in near them
what i did to counteract that was i would offer my forearm to her just outside the cage door & ssay step up holding a pice of popcorn just outside her reach so she had to get on my arm to get it ....... irns are nuts for popcorn so far havent found one that doesnt like it
with the time out method anther way i do that one is i just stand where i was & turn my back when they act up (this one only works when they arnt standing on you) afetr the negative behaviour stops i turn around & give a treat if the birds not up to taking the food from my hand i put in near them
Re: Hi
Thank you, Sounds like some great ideas I can try, I haven't tried popcorn but will give it a go. She really can be so nasty, I was just wondering if it is always going to be like this. She is only pleasant when there is food on offer and as soon as she has finished that she lashes out at me again. I will certainly take your ideas on board....do you have any for 10yr old boys, I have an unpleasant one of those too! LOL!!
Re: Hi
Thanks.....I do think the birds, and my gorgeous dog are a lot easier....hahahaha! We have a had some sucess!! My 10yr old and Indy seem to be getting a long fine, must be because they both have attitude. She seems to be quite happy to sit on his arm and only really seems to beak him as opposed to biting! She will even let him stroke her back...I am lucky if I can give her belly a bit of a tickle!! She does seem to respond better to treats, the crushed nuts seem to be working. She is quite happy to gently take treats from me, while sitting on my finger, but when she has finished the treat....she is quite happy to bite and lock on to my finger. I guess it's just going to be a lot of patience and practice makes perfect right! I really wasn't expecting this viciousness...my cockatiel is so gentle and sweet!! I just hope Indy isn't always like this!