same answear i want, i heard that if the birds are laying for the first time you shouldnt take out the baby because next time they breed the female will chuck the eggs out thinking it was thier time to go.
so for instant you took the bird out 3 day after it hatched the mother will always chuck the bird out after 3 days of hatching
When should babies be removed from the parents?
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Re: When should babies be removed from the parents?
If you have never hand-fed a parrot before, i suggest you should not remove them.
Better to have parent raised chicks then dead chicks and a sour experience.
You will need to be prepared with a brooder to keep them warm, tools such as syringe, spoon , formula etc
Try to find a breeder that has done this many times and ask him to teach you hands on.
It requires a lot of work and most find this harder then they have imagined.
Better to have parent raised chicks then dead chicks and a sour experience.
You will need to be prepared with a brooder to keep them warm, tools such as syringe, spoon , formula etc
Try to find a breeder that has done this many times and ask him to teach you hands on.
It requires a lot of work and most find this harder then they have imagined.
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Re: When should babies be removed from the parents?
Do a search in this forum, there's lots of info on handraising, you should try to learn as much as you can before taking them out.
I suggest in your case to take them out at 3 weeks old. some take it at 2 but i don't recommend the first time you do it.
You need to know: how many times and when to feed, how hot the food should be, what formula/food to use, best temp to keep the young at, too much or too little warmth for the little ones can be lethal.
Hopefully other members will give you further advice.
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10% luck, 20% skill, 15% concentrated power of will, 50% pleasure, 5% pain$ and a 100% reason ..I just gotta know
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Re: When should babies be removed from the parents?
Taking them out at 3 to 4 weeks is the optimal point between getting a very tame pet with the least risk and effort from the hand feeding perspective. The feather pins should have pushed out and the feathers should be open far enough to easily see the colour. When the feathers on the chest start coming out and opening, I don't think a brooder is necessary any more (at least not here where I stay). At this stage I remove my blues and blue splits for handrearing as pets and to reduce the competition in the nest.
And Ringo, as for it being difficult, I don't agree at all.
We have sold many at this stage to people who have never h/r a bird before, and never had a single problem. Heck, I can't even recall somebody phoning me back for help after the short lecture during collection time. If junkies and hillbillies can raise kids, a responsible person inquiring on an internet forum as part of research could surely raise a parrot. 
There was a very good post on h/r a parrot on this forum some time back. I don't recall exactly where, but a search should reveal it. Good luck.
And Ringo, as for it being difficult, I don't agree at all.
We have sold many at this stage to people who have never h/r a bird before, and never had a single problem. Heck, I can't even recall somebody phoning me back for help after the short lecture during collection time. If junkies and hillbillies can raise kids, a responsible person inquiring on an internet forum as part of research could surely raise a parrot. There was a very good post on h/r a parrot on this forum some time back. I don't recall exactly where, but a search should reveal it. Good luck.
Re: When should babies be removed from the parents?
rritoch, the age of the birds sounds quite promising to me. 2 year old hens are fine for breeding with cocks of the same age or older.
As for the brooder, it doesn't need to be a very expensive piece of equipment. What works quite well for me is a snake cage (mostly wood with glass sliding doors), fitted with a snake heating matt (consisting of heating wire covered in alluminium film; 25 Watt should be ok) and one or two 25W infrared heating globes. The heating matt goes in the middle and connect that as always on, it raises the temperature very little. On top of that place a plastic container that'll serve as your water reservoir for humidity. The size of the opening will determine the evaporation rate. The infra red globes are connected to the electric thermostat and they will switch on when the matt can't provide enough heat through the reservoir. Temperature can be set at about 35 degrees C. I have six chicks in my brooder, varying between 3 and 4 weeks and have turned of the infrared section of the heating system.
A brooder is a simple thing, a fully automatic incubator is a much trickier device to get right. But it doesn't sound like you need one of those.
As for the brooder, it doesn't need to be a very expensive piece of equipment. What works quite well for me is a snake cage (mostly wood with glass sliding doors), fitted with a snake heating matt (consisting of heating wire covered in alluminium film; 25 Watt should be ok) and one or two 25W infrared heating globes. The heating matt goes in the middle and connect that as always on, it raises the temperature very little. On top of that place a plastic container that'll serve as your water reservoir for humidity. The size of the opening will determine the evaporation rate. The infra red globes are connected to the electric thermostat and they will switch on when the matt can't provide enough heat through the reservoir. Temperature can be set at about 35 degrees C. I have six chicks in my brooder, varying between 3 and 4 weeks and have turned of the infrared section of the heating system.
A brooder is a simple thing, a fully automatic incubator is a much trickier device to get right. But it doesn't sound like you need one of those.